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Weekend a Matera, una città in fermento

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Appena mi sono affacciata da uno dei più famosi punti panoramici della città – piazza Giovanni Pascoli – con la vista più ritratta, il suo profilo più conosciuto, il respiro per un attimo è venuto meno. Matera. Coi suoi Sassi, il suo bianco invecchiato, le sue scale, le sue stradine acciottolate, le tante porte, le mille finestre, gli affascinati anfratti.

Ecco, questo è quel che suscita questa nuova Capitale europea della cultura 2019, fascino da vendere. Una Storia che è storia di riscatto da mozzare il fiato. Un passato “vergognoso” dal quale è ripartita e che adesso è preziosa memoria.

Matera come una fenice, è risorta da quel che di lei era rimasto, quelle “tane vergognose” – così le definì De Gasperi – che gli abitanti hanno dovuto abbandonare. Un enorme girone dantesco – questo parve alla sorella di Carlo Levi che, ricordiamo, fu costretto a trascorrere in Basilicata i mesi del suo confino politico – dove uomini, donne, bambini e bestie vivevano insieme in grotte anguste e in condizioni di enorme degrado.
Adesso Matera c’è, è tornata a vivere risanandosi negli anni. Tanto ha giovato il cinema, anche d’oltreoceano, l’occhio attento di quei registi che ne hanno visto le naturali potenzialità scenografiche. I più giovani ricorderanno Passion di Mel Gibson del 2004, ma andando a ritroso negli anni titoli e personalità si sono susseguite. In una parete della Casa-Grotta del Casalnuovo ne è riportato un elenco. Manca l’ultimo, manca Ben-Hur, da pochi giorni nelle sale.

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Pippo, il gentilissimo proprietario del Lamia, il B&B dove ho alloggiato, me ne ha parlato, di questa esperienza da set cinematografico avvenuta nei primi mesi del 2015. Mi ha raccontato di comparse, di costumi, di attori, di droni per le riprese dall’alto, di scene ripetute decine di volte nei sentieri della gravina. Il tutto corredato da fotografie, perché Pippo è pure un fotografo. Persona squisita che da qualche mese si dedica all’ospitalità offrendo camere pulite, curatissime e con un’ottima ubicazione nella città. E una colazione da leccarsi i baffi, grazie alla complicità della moglie.

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Alla visita di Matera ho dedicato il tempo di un fine settimana, con volo Ryanair da Bologna partito in perfetto orario e arrivato in un’ora a Bari. Lì ci aspettava il servizio navetta prenotato proprio grazie a Pippo. Merita perché Matera purtroppo resta mal collegata e in una visita di tre giorni non merita perdere ore in spostamenti più complicati solo per risparmiare qualche euro. Ho preferito risparmiar tempo.

Il pomeriggio del primo giorno l’ho trascorso girando per la città, percorrendone la via Barocca (via del Corso) che da piazza Pascoli con Palazzo Lanfranchi arriva a piazza Vittorio Veneto. Chiese barocche e palazzi eleganti, i fasti del Seicento e del Settecento materano, deliziosi locali e ristorantini, golose gelaterie e tanti bei negozi. È la via dello struscio, quella in cui si fanno le “vasche” e la sera si riempie incredibilmente. Una vivacità da serata estiva piuttosto che da inizio ottobre. Ho consumato il mio primo pranzo scegliendo il locale “di pancia”, nel vero senso del termine! Non ne avevo letto alcuna recensione, ma La fedda rossa mi è piaciuto assai! 🙂 Tra bruschette (le “fedde rosse”, appunto), taglieri e zuppe (la mia era di cicerchie) qui ho gustato i primi sapori della cucina materana.

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Ho visitato la Matera sotterranea del Palombaro Lungo, con accesso da piazza Vittorio Veneto: una guida prenotata in loco al prezzo di 3 euro ha spiegato in maniera chiara l’origine di questa enorme cisterna che risale al 1846 e tutto l’ingegnoso sistema di approvvigionamento idrico della città (sistema che ha valso a Matera il titolo di patrimonio UNESCO nel 1993).

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Sono scesa verso il Sasso Caveoso alla ricerca di Casa Noha, antica casa grotta donata da due famiglie del luogo nel 2004. Qui un filmato veramente ben realizzato  – I Sassi invisibili: Viaggio straordinario nella storia di Matera – mostra la complessa storia della città rendendola nel giro di mezz’ora alla portata di tutti. E nel cuore di ognuno, inevitabilmente.

La domenica mattina avevo un tour guidato prenotato on line una settimana prima della partenza. Avevo fatto ricerca in rete e nei forum avevo trovato ricorrente il nome di Eleonora (Matera Tour Guide). Scelta che si è rivelata vincente perché visitare il Sasso Caveoso accompagnati dalle sue informazioni è stato bellissimo. In due ore abbondanti abbiamo girato fra le stradine soffermandoci nei luoghi più significativi, visitato la Chiesa rupestre di Santa Lucia alle Malve, l’antica Casa-Grotta del Casalnuovo, perfettamente conservata e completa di mobilio e suppellettili, e la seconda cisterna della città.

 

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Per il pranzo ho scelto la Latteria, storica gastronomia dove ho mangiato un’ottima tagliata di podolica, veramente di qualità, accompagnata da verdure grigliate. La cucina lucana è ben servita.

Dopo aver visitato la Cattedrale, riaperta al pubblico la scorsa primavera dopo un restauro lungo tredici anni, ho deciso di raggiungere il ponte tibetano che attraversa il fiume Gravina e collega i Sassi al Parco della Murgia (anche questo inaugurato a marzo scorso). Dall’altra parte della parete del canyon ho goduto della vista della città da un’altra prospettiva, dal basso verso l’alto. Merita, ma sappiate che si tratta di 25 minuti circa di percorso in discesa per raggiungere il ponte. Da lì, percorrendo un sentiero lungo ma meno impervio e scosceso si può risalire raggiungendo le vecchie grotte sulla sommità della parete che si erge dinanzi a Matera. Il percorso andata e ritorno richiede quindi circa due ore. So che si può raggiungere l’altra parte della gravina in auto facendosi accompagnare e da lì percorrere il tragitto così una sola volta. A voi la scelta.

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La fatica fisica sostenuta andava premiata con un gelato! La Gelida Voglia mi ha decisamente accontentata. Ottimo pistacchio!
Per la cena ho prenotato un tavolo al delizioso e centralissimo La Gatta buia (fino al 1870 c’era un carcere) dove ho finalmente assaggiato i noti peperoni cruschi accompagnati da squisite polpettine di pane di Matera. A seguire risotto con funghi, zucca e formaggio canestrato DOP di Molitemo. Beh… che ve lo dico a fare… 😀
Purtroppo non bevo, ma posso comunque garantirvi la presenza di una fornita cantina.

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Serata conclusa poi nel bellissimo locale Area 8, il cui significato già mi aveva conquistata. Aggiungete poi un enorme spazio interno divinamente arredato in stile vintage e una lista di bevande adatte a tutti. Ho azzardato con l’Artemisia. Io che non bevo eh. Il mojito analcolico che ho bevuto poi era divino. Per aperitivi, cena e dopocena e tutto quel che volete: è uno spazio polifunzionale, molto metropolitano, un hub dove val la pena trascorrere del tempo distraendosi.

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Tre giorni intensi, che ne dite?

Ci tornerò e la prossima volta lo farò con i bambini: Matera offre dal punto di vista storico e paesaggistico numerosi spunti che naturalmente possono attrarre la curiosità di visitatori più giovani. Cristo si è fermato ad Eboli di Carlo Levi sarà una lettura che acquisterà un significato più profondo quando saranno “costretti” ad affrontarla durante i loro studi superiori.

“Chiunque veda Matera non può non restarne colpito, tanto è espressiva e toccante la sua dolente bellezza.”

“Sono passati molti anni, pieni di guerra, e di quello che si usa chiamare la Storia. (…) Ma, chiuso in una stanza, e in un mondo chiuso, mi è grato riandare con la memoria a quell’altro mondo, serrato nel dolore e negli usi, negato alla Storia e allo Stato, eternamente paziente; a quella mia terra senza conforto e dolcezza, dove il contadino vive, nella miseria e nella lontananza, la sua immobile civiltà, su un suolo arido, nella presenza della morte.
– Noi non siamo cristiani, – essi dicono, – Cristo si è fermato a Eboli –. Cristiano vuol dire, nel loro linguaggio, uomo: e la frase proverbiale che ho sentito tante volte ripetere, nelle loro bocche non è forse nulla piú che l’espressione di uno sconsolato complesso di inferiorità. Noi non siamo cristiani, non siamo uomini, non siamo considerati come uomini, ma bestie, bestie da soma, e ancora meno che le bestie, i fruschi, i frusculicchi (…) Nessuno ha toccato questa terra se non come un conquistatore o un nemico o un visitatore incomprensivo. Le stagioni scorrono sulla fatica contadina, oggi come tremila anni prima di Cristo: nessun messaggio umano o divino si è rivolto a questa povertà refrattaria. Parliamo un diverso linguaggio: la nostra lingua è qui incomprensibile. I grandi viaggiatori non sono andati di là dai confini del proprio mondo; e hanno percorso i sentieri della propria anima e quelli del bene e del male, della moralità e della redenzione. Cristo è sceso nell’inferno sotterraneo del moralismo ebraico per romperne le porte nel tempo e sigillarle nell’eternità. Ma in questa terra oscura, senza peccato e senza redenzione, dove il male non è morale, ma è un dolore terrestre, che sta per sempre nelle cose, Cristo non è disceso. Cristo si è fermato a Eboli.”

(Carlo Levi)

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