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Trekking tra i sentieri di Tiziano Terzani

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Trekking. Mai fatto prima. Un po’ per pigrizia un po’ perché per certe scarpinate, per certi percorsi, ci vuol la guida e la compagnia giusta. Complice un weekend all’insegna del bel tempo, uno dei primi di quest’autunno, ho detto sì a una gita la cui meta mi affascinava moltissimo: Orsigna, piccolo borgo sull’Appennino pistoiese, tra i sentieri cari a Tiziano Terzani, dove trascorreva le estati da piccolo e dove ha poi scelto di vivere ormai ammalato e spengersi. Ho letto un paio dei suoi libri qualche anno fa, ne ho sempre ammirato la vita piena, il coraggio, l’audacia, la pace con cui ha affrontato la malattia e la morte. La biblioteca in cui lavoro è intitolata a lui. Trascorrere una giornata nei suoi luoghi mi ha entusiasmata. E siccome “da Orsigna non ci si passa, per andarci bisogna volerlo” – così come lui ha detto – io l’ho voluto.

Mi sono affidata ad un gruppo trekking già collaudato da amici: una buona organizzazione e una giovane ed ottima guida, Benedetta. E loro sarebbero stati con me e i bambini… come dire di no?
Parto con le parole di Terzani in mente:

 

“La regola secondo me è: quando sei a un bivio e trovi una strada che va in su e una che va in giù, piglia quella che va in su. È più facile andare in discesa, ma alla fine ti trovi in un buco. A salire c’è più speranza. È difficile, è un altro modo di vedere le cose, è una sfida, ti tiene all’erta.” (da La fine è il mio inizio).

 

E se nella vita questa magnifica regola è di difficile applicazione – perché la salita, per scelta, tutti la evitiamo – penso che oggi, almeno fisicamente, valga la pena davvero salire.

 
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Il gruppo parte da Orsigna, dove lasciamo la macchina. Imbocchiamo il sentiero n. 5 del CAI, ben tracciato. È un percorso importante, una sorta di “autostrada del Medioevo”, dato che dal Duecento fino al Cinquecento ha costituito la principale via di collegamento tra l’area di Pistoia e Bologna.

 

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Saliamo inoltrandoci tra gli alti castagni incendiati dai colori autunnali. Il passo rallenta, si scatta una foto, si raccolgono castagne, le si mangiano lungo il percorso. Dopo una quarantina di minuti di camminata raggiungiamo la prima tappa, Casa Moretto, a 960 m di altezza. Un altro piccolo borgo tra queste montagne. Pochissime case, una fontana, tanta cura per la natura ed il paesaggio. La vita lenta di chi qui ha casa e trascorre le sue giornate, tra lavoretti in giardino e chiacchiere coi passanti.

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Riprendiamo il sentiero istruiti da Benedetta, la guida: il paesaggio cambia, i castagni cedono la terra ai faggi, ma la bellezza non muta. Si segue il sentiero, si raggiungono radure, si scorgono sorbi rossi e radici contorte, e, poco dopo la Fonte della Gabelletta (a 1225 m), arriviamo ad un punto panoramico da cui si gode la valle dell’Orsigna. Proseguiamo, continuiamo a salire, ma la fame comincia a farsi sentire e la stanchezza pure. L’obiettivo era raggiungere i 1552 m di Poggio Merizzone – che segna il confine tra Toscana ed Emilia Romagna (sono ancora visibili le pietre che lo delimitano, fatte posare nel 1791 da Pietro leopoldo, Granduca di Toscana) – ma i panini che abbiamo nel sacco hanno la meglio su di noi e ci fermiamo nel bosco a mangiare.

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Il gruppo decide poi di non proseguire nella salita, gli abbondanti 1350 m di altezza raggiunti ci soddisfano e desideriamo visitare un altro luogo: il celebre “Albero con gli occhi” che Terzani ideò per trasmettere al nipotino il rispetto per la natura in quanto anch’essa vivente. Ripercorriamo quindi il tracciato a ritroso, rifocillati e facilitati dalla discesa e torniamo alle auto. Percorriamo la strada che conduce a Case Cucciani: da lì parte il sentiero che porta alla radura del ciliegio. Solo 15 minuti di cammino e il fascino del luogo ti rapisce. L’albero, gli occhi, tanti simboli votivi e la valle dietro tutto questo. Un luogo che naturalmente si offre alla meditazione.

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“Io chi sono? La risposta sta nel porsi la domanda, nel rendersi conto che io non sono il mio corpo, non sono quello che faccio, non sono quello che posseggo, non sono i rapporti che ho, non sono neppure i miei pensieri, non le mie esperienze, non quell’Io a cui teniamo così tanto. La risposta è senza parole. È nell’immergersi silenzioso dell’Io nel Sé.” (da Un altro giro di giostra)

 

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Credo che tornerò a far trekking: si è in buona compagnia, circondati dalla natura, e si fa del sano movimento!


Ah! Importantissimo. Lungo la via del ritorno vale la pena una sosta per la merenda presso il Mulino di Berto. La mattonella al cioccolato era divina e la visita guidata con tanto di spiegazione su essiccatura, sbucciatura delle castagne e funzionamento del mulino ad acqua è stata occasione preziosa, soprattutto per i bambini.

1.488 thoughts on “Trekking tra i sentieri di Tiziano Terzani

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