Viaggi

Il viaggio continua: Madeira e Porto Santo – parte 2

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Eccomi puntuale all’appuntamento datovi per completare il racconto del mio viaggio a Madeira e Porto Santo. Se vi siete persi la prima parte… recuperate leggendola qui! 😉
Quello che vi descrivo in questo nuovo post, da fare e da vedere in questa bell’isola, si trova nella sua parte settentrionale, quella più esposta ai venti e alla forza del mare, quella più selvaggia.

Cosa non potete perdervi?


  • Il piccolo centro urbano di Santana, a nord est, con le sue caratteristiche casette triangolari. Colorate, in pietra, col tetto di paglia. Risalgono addirittura al XV secolo! Capita di trovarne qualcuna ancora abitata da persone magari anziane, ma la maggior parte sono diventate piccoli negozietti di souvenir o comunque luoghi di attrazione per i turisti. Fatevi un giretto, sembra di essere dentro un villaggio da fiaba!
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santana
  • Dalla parte opposta, ad ovest della costa nord, dove l’oceano infuria agitato dal vento, sono tappa irrinunciabile le piscine naturali, scavate nella roccia, a sfioro sul mare. Le vasche non sono altro che bacini creati dalle colate laviche e riempiti dalle onde dell’oceano. Ricordiamoci che siamo in un’isola vulcanica! Ce ne sono alcune ad ingresso libero ed altre invece che sono inserite in uno stabilimento balneare. Mi preme precisare che non ci sono spiagge però! Solo roccia e cemento. Certo, quella del bagno è un’esperienza che potete godervi solo in estate… ma il luogo, Porto Moniz, merita comunque una visita anche in inverno per la sua bellissima costa rocciosa. È un vivace centro pieno di negozietti, bar e ristorantini.
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Fonte: Pinterest
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Fonte: Pinterest
  • La costa nord è da percorrere per intero: troverete spiaggette di ciottoli, faraglioni e fantastiche scogliere. I teleferici presenti vi porteranno in cima ad alcune di queste per godere di viste mozzafiato. Non molto distante da Porto Moniz ce n’è uno grazie al quale si può vedere dall’alto di Alchadas da Cruz.

Il Belvedere da vertigine dal quale mi sono affacciata io si trova si trova a Cabo Giraõ, di nuovo a Sud. È uno dei promontori più alti d’Europa. Siamo a 580 m sopra il livello del mare ed hai la possibilità di affacciarti su questo strapiombo dalla terrazza del Mirador, camminando su di un pavimento di vetro… se soffrite di vertigini statevene alla larga! Altrimenti… uno spettacolo si estenderà davanti a voi e sotto i vostri piedi. Il teleferico nelle vicinanze può farvi raggiungere la spiaggia sottostante.

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mirador

 

Non esistono grandi spiagge a Madeira: sono piccole e di ciottoli. Per questo ho scelto di raggiungere la vicina Porto Santo. Qui hai addirittura 9 km filati di interminabile spiaggia dorata!

Poco altro oltre a tanto relax:

  • la casa di Cristoforo Colombo – che vi soggiornò un anno prima della partenza per le Americhe – adesso trasformata in museo;
 
  • Una piccola oasi verde in mezzo all’isola, Quinta das Palmeiras, voluta e creata in 20 anni da un meritevole uomo in questa terra che, a differenza di Madeira, è arida. Oltre a una vegetazione di vario tipo, sono presenti cigni e uccelli. E un piccolo bar.
 
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  • La sabbia e il mare di Porto Santo hanno potere terapeutico: ricchi di calcio, magnesio e iodio, sono ideali per la cura di reumatismi e dolori. Passeggiate, sabbiature e bagni: così ci si cura in vacanza qui!
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Per gli amanti dei centri specializzati, non mancano le spa annesse agli hotel più belli. Che sono un paio a dir la verità… io ho preferito l’appartamento.

Vi dico quale, aprendo così lo spazio agli indirizzi utili:

A Madeira ho soggiornato a Santana, in una deliziosa casetta di Casas do Pomar. Assolutamente consigliata! Ben arredata, funzionale, coi proprietari gentilissimi, inserita in un rigoglioso giardino. Una sera sarete invitati a cena a casa loro, insieme a tutti gli altri ospiti. La signora curerà la cena a base di piatti tipici e potrete godere di una divertente serata a seguire. Persone del luogo interverranno con costumi tipici e suoneranno e balleranno con e per voi! In frigo troverete marmellate homemade e ciò che serve per la colazione e… sopresa! tutte le mattine, attaccato alla maniglia della porta, ci sarà un fagotto di pane caldo ad attendervi! 
 
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A Porto Santo ho prenotato un appartamento inserito in un complesso condominiale nuovissimo, il Paraiso dourado. La casa era davvero molto ampia e super attrezzata, con tanto di lavatrice e lavastoviglie.
 
Sempre a Porto Santo, non perdetevi una cena sulla spiaggia al Pe na agua. Gusterete ottimi piatti portoghesi e oltre a baccalà e polpo cucinato alla portoghese, potrete gustare il diffuso e gustoso “espada”, pesce simile al pesce sciabola. 
 
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Il Bolo do caco, pane casereccio condito con burro salato e aglio.
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Patelle
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Un dolce tipico dell’isola
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Il polpo alla portoghese
L’isola di Porto Santo rappresenta anche un buon esempio di sfruttamento delle energie rinnovabili. Impossibile, infatti, giunti al porto, non notare l’impianto di biodisel: alti cilindri trasparenti pieni di materiale verde. Qui l’energia è ricavata direttamente dalle alghe! Un innovativo sistema che a Porto Santo ha visto la prima installazione europea (in Italia il primo impianto pilota è stato collaudato nel 2014 a Modena).

Consapevole di non essere stata esauriente nel descrivere tutto quello che queste due isolette sperse nell’oceano possono offrire, spero però di avervi solleticato la voglia di partire, per scoprire da soli queste bellezze. Se lo fate passate poi di qui a lasciare un commento e ad integrare questo racconto. 😉
 
 
 

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