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Helmut Newton e le sue donne a Venezia

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È già la seconda volta in pochi mesi che Venezia offre l’occasione di una visita, se mai serva un’occasione! Venezia val sempre la pena. La fotografia è il motore che spinge di nuovo verso questo lido… vi ricordate il post su Sguardo di donna? Ebbene, stavolta la Casa dei tre Oci accoglie oltre 200 capolavori di Helmut Newton, quelli delle sue tre celebri raccolte, White women, Sleepless nights e Big nudes. Tutti e tre pubblicati e curati da lui stesso alla fine degli anni Settanta.
Newton è un grande, uno dei grandi nomi che hanno accompagnato la fotografia della moda, che ha tradotto in immagini la buona borghesia, quella in cui lui stesso è cresciuto, a Berlino, prima che le leggi razziali naziste ne stravolgessero per qualche anno la vita.
A 12 anni aveva già la sua prima macchina fotografica. A 16 anni già lavora con Yva, nota fotografa tedesca. Sposa June Browne, attrice e… fotografa. È a lei che dobbiamo l’idea di questa mostra, curata da Matthias Harder e Denis Curti (conoscete già la fotografia che apre questo articolo e che non a caso è la foto-manifesto di questa mostra? eccola lì la moglie June, quella con gli occhialoni, suduta sulla destra, ritratta anche lei dal marito Helmut mentre fotografa la modella).

Cosa vediamo esposte nelle sale di questa particolare “casa dai tre occhi” nell’isola della Giudecca?

Le fotografie nate per la moda, i ritratti, i grandi nudi in bianco e nero, l’erotismo, la tendenza al voyeurismo, cenni sadomaso, un po’ di feticismo. La donna soprattutto. Ci sono il lusso, il potere, i soldi, la donna che domina, bella e un po’ fredda e l’uomo se c’è, quando c’è, par quasi soltanto un accessorio.

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Modelle portate alla nudità integrale, variamente agghindate, esplicitamente provocanti, sempre un po’ in bilico tra raffinatezza e volgarità. D’altronde questa non era da lui disdegnata… basta leggere quanto da lui affermato in una intervista:

“Adoro la volgarità. Sono attratto dal cattivo gusto, ben più eccitante del preteso buon gusto che non è altro che una normalizzazione dello sguardo. (…) Se cerco un vero punto di vista non comincerò guardando quel che l’arte accetta per adattarmici. Così in Nuits Blanches, tutti i movimenti sadomaso ancora oggi mi sembrano molto interessanti e ho sempre nel cofano della mia macchina catene e lucchetti, non per me ma per le mie foto. D’altra parte, non faccio mai nodi troppo stretti.”

Che tipo.
Tra lavori commissionati dai magazine più importanti (ha lavorato per le più grandi riviste di moda, da Vogue a Elle, Vanity Fair e Marie Claire, solo per citarne alcuni) e scatti personalmente voluti, con le modelle portate fuori dallo studio e collocate in ambienti dalle atmosfere patinate, Newton allestisce una collezione che merita conoscere, e questa mostra ne offre la possibilità.

 

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Se volete saperne di più su Newton, qui potete vedere le opere in commercio. Lo stralcio di intervista riportato sopra è tratto da Helmut Newton, edito da Contrasto nel 2004. Ne potete leggere comunque qualche pagina cliccando qui.

 

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La casa dei tre Oci (Isola della Giudecca, Venezia)

 

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Helmut Newton

 

Se amate la fotografia e magari siete anche fashion addicted… non perdetevi questo giro!
La mostra è visitabile fino al 7 agosto.

253 thoughts on “Helmut Newton e le sue donne a Venezia

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